Category Archives: Hawaii

Cascading Risk

Following on my last blog about a visit to the Polynesian Voyaging Society and a meeting with Nainoa Thompson, this is a short Think Piece I wrote in early September 2011 as part of my studies in the Asia Pacific Leadership Program. It’s about a boating disaster and ties-in with my last blog post. Enjoy!

Hokule'a sailing with Honolulu in background

On March 16, 1978 more than 10,000 people were at Magic Island, Oahu to see the crew of the Hokule’a set-off on their epic self-navigated journey to Tahiti. What should have been a joyous journey quickly turned into disaster. This could likely have been averted had an unnecessary risk not been taken, which then cascaded into a series of other risks. One day later the boat was capsized and one of its crew, Hawaiian surfer and North Shore legend Eddie Aikau was missing.

Extrapolating from one of Week 3’s themes – Risk, I drew some parallels from a book I just finished reading, “Eddie Would Go” by Stuart Holmes Coleman.

The Hokule’a’s mission of navigating by stars in a traditional Polynesian boat was conceived and managed by the Polynesian Voyaging Society (PVS). While their goal was lofty, they’d spent a good deal of time training and selecting a diverse crew, ensuring their sky navigator was up to the task and were more or less ready to go. On the day of departure weather conditions were less than ideal. High seas and offshore gales led many crew members including Captain David Lyman to suggest a delay of departure until weather improved. With a mass of media and politicians present, PVS President Mike Tongg and his board didn’t want to suffer a PR embarrassment and insisted departure continue as planned. This unnecessary risk set into motion a series of risks that would ultimately lead to Eddie’s death.

That evening, weathering 15-foot seas the Hokule’a’s hull filled with water. Prior to departure the Captain had asked that rubber gaskets to seal the hatches be installed but the modification had been refused by the PVS. With large waves breaching the hulls, the hatches leaked and no amount of bailing could prevent the boat from flipping. The craft overturned so quickly the crew was unable to locate and salvage the Gibson Girl radio and the Emergency Radio Beacon, greatly reducing their chance of rescue. They spent an arduous night hanging on to the boat, fighting terrible weather and praying for a rescue which didn’t come.

Eddie Aikau memorial at Waimea Bay, Oahu

Eddie was a strong character with a lifetime of experience in the water and respected as one of Hawaii’s greatest surfers and all-around water god. Despite there being a cardinal boating rule of not leaving your vessel until it totally sinks Eddie suggested to the Captain on the first evening that he paddle his long board to the nearest island Lana’i for help. He was denied.

The next morning with some crew members desperately sea sick and the Hokule’a drifting out of traditional shipping lanes, Eddie again asked the Captain to let him paddle the now 20 miles to Lana’i. Eddie being such a strong character and rescue looking unlikely Captain Lyman violated sailing protocol and gave Eddie the “okay” to go for help.

At 10:30am on March 17 Eddie paddled-off and was never seen again. To this day Captain Lyman struggles with his decision and one wonders had the Hokule’a not left port in poor weather on the 16th, if Eddie would still be alive? Cascading risk had taken its toll.


Nainoa Thompson & the Polynesian Voyaging Society

Eddie Aikau aboard Hokule’a

Shortly after arriving in Honolulu to attend the Asia Pacific Leadership Program (APLP) I decided I would only read books about Hawaii while here. One that was recommended by an alumnus and surf fanatic was Eddie Would Go, by Stuart Holmes Coleman. I’m glad I read it in my first month as it influenced my impressions of Oahu and added a lot of depth to guest lecturers we met later in the course, namely Stuart and Nainoa Thompson.

The book chronicles the life and untimely death of Hawaiian surfer and lifeguard extraordinaire Eddie Aikau. It was not only a thoroughly entertaining and moving book about a legendary Hawaiian but also did an amazing job of introducing the island of Oahu back in the 1950s up until Eddie’s death in 1978. Without giving away too much about the book (it’s well worth a purchase), Eddie met his fate while crewing aboard the Hokule’a, a double-hulled Polynesian voyaging canoe, on its second journey from Hawaii to Tahiti using only the sky and traditional navigating techniques.

On May 16, 1978 the Hokule’a set sail in poor weather, soon thereafter water filled her hulls off the island of Molokai, she overturned and after a terrible night bobbing in high seas Eddie was granted permission by the ship’s captain to paddle on his surfboard to the island of Lanai for help. That was May 17, the last day Eddie was seen. It was a monumental loss for Hawaiians and watermen worldwide.

Nainoa Thompson was the navigator on that journey and is mentioned several times in Eddie Would Go, where I first heard of him. When reading about Eddie’s disappearance, trying to save his fellow sailors, I often thought about the weight his death must have had upon Thompson, who rather than let the Hokule’a’s mission die (many wanted it to be put in a museum after the disaster), took some time to gain perspective from the incident and eventually returned stronger than ever.

Thompson is currently President of the Polynesian Voyaging Society (PVS) and has been the driving force behind their voyages over the last 36 years. Not only has the Hokule’a sailed the equivalent of six trips around the world, but Thompson has taken a dream of proving that Tahitians did indeed sail to Hawaii more than a thousand years ago and grown it into a mission that now educates students, trains navigators and inspires people around the world. I was delighted to learn we’d be visiting the PVS on November 30 as part of our studies, meet Nainoa, then sail with him in the evening, learning a little bit about navigating using the stars.

Our cohort of 40 sat on chairs in a large circle in one of the PVS’s classrooms and Nainoa was two seats from me. Small in physical size, I was mesmerized at his quiet demeanor and Yoda-like answers to our questions. We had roughly an hour to converse and his answers were vast, multi-sided and totally inspiring. He spent about five minutes answering most questions, covering an incredible variety of angles and delving so deep at times I forgot what the original question was, but everything and every word he uttered was mesmerizing. He’s truly a legend and one of the most inspiring characters I’ve ever met.

APLP cohort preparing to sail

A number of things stood out from our conversation, mostly about leadership which is a major focus of our course. Sections during our studies have been called Manifest, Charting, Navigating, and so forth, sailing being a major theme of the APLP and Thompson imparted some wisdom I’ll never forget:

Learning, Planning, Training, Practice are the ingredients to a successful voyage.
Being an entrepreneur and running Smiling Albino over the last 12 years I drew a lot of inspiration from this. Not only is it necessary for a successful voyage but for any sizable, meaningful project to achieve success. Sometimes it’s easy to lose sight of this simple fact and when you fail it’s likely you haven’t done the aforementioned properly.

The Doldrums provide fear and inspiration.
Thompson loves the doldrums, the windless, tough-to-navigate, cloudy area around the equator most sailors fear. He loves it because this is where fear and uncertainty live. In order to achieve great success you must get to the point of fear, be at its door and have the courage to open it and move forward. The doldrums provide this opportunity.

One must plan/earn the voyage.
While there were many minutes of explanation behind this statement it’s incredibly true and applies to almost any big undertaking. An idea is just an idea, a plan is just a plan, but all elements and people must come together and plan together to achieve success.

There are no fights on our voyages (most are about 30+ days) as everyone trains so hard and fully understands the voyage is much bigger than them.
To get a team all on the same page for a small project is no small feat. To do so for a multi-day voyage across the world where lives are at stake and one misstep can spell disaster is incredible. Any team or company to be successful must truly understand this point and believe it wholeheartedly.

Thompson: You must be able to ‘see’ Tahiti to get there.
He told us how Eddie would say he was going to “Pull Tahiti from the water,” literally envisioning their arrival, propelling the crew to their destination, believing in their mission and being able to see the goal. Too many times we embark upon projects and missions where we don’t really believe we’ll achieve success. If you can’t see it, you won’t succeed.

One of the most profound messages Thompson shared was of practice. We all know that to become proficient at something it stands to reason one must practice – lots. While we practice to learn a language, how to play an instrument or get good at a sport, often with work or projects we somehow don’t put the same time, energy and practice in. During the time of Eddie’s Hokule’a voyage the crew would do a couple practice sails before heading out. Crews since then, log about 5,000km around Oahu and the Hawaiian islands before heading out for the real journey. The message: there’s no substitute for practice and preparation. This is likely one of the main reasons crews have had so much success since that infamous 1978 journey.

Nainoa (blue jacket) telling us about navigation

Our evening with Nainoa will stand out as a highlight of my time in the APLP and one moment in particular still has me buzzing. He looked at all 40 of us sitting in our circle and talked about the importance of Eddie’s death. At that time Hawaiians were expected to fail and things Hawaiian were perceived as flawed. His death proved it. Hawaiian culture and values were at the beginning of a renaissance and his death could have spelled the end of popular Hawaiian culture. Instead the PVS pushed forward, made much good from a terrible incident, and Eddie’s death has in many ways not only kept the PVS mission alive but elevated Hawaiian culture and inspired thousands not only in Hawaii but around the world.

Thank you Nainoa Thompson for your time, inspiration, teachings and making my Hawaiian experience that much richer.

The Hokule’a is currently in dry dock undergoing a complete restoration, preparing it for a 2013 Worldwide Voyage and another 36 years on the high seas.


Volcano National Park

Where is the time going? Since coming to Hawaii on August 6th to partake in the Asia Pacific Leadership Program it feels as though life

Glowing crater in the park

has been on fast forward. How did it suddenly get to be December 1? I’m left with just three weeks before returning to Thailand on December 20th and soon thereafter back to work at Smiling Albino in early January. I guess time has gone fast as I’ve been up to a lot of things, learning, exploring and loving life and the weather in Oahu. It’s been a few weeks since my last post and I’ll make an effort in the coming weeks to post a bit of final impressions of Hawaii, the program I’ve been partaking in and a summary of what I’ve learned. Until then a quick update on one of the coolest places I’ve been.

My girlfriend Erika came from Bangkok for a visit on November 19. After three-and-a-half months apart it was great to see her and we spent 10 days exploring Oahu and also went to Hawaii’s Big Island for five days. We rented a car and spent two nights at Volcano National Park. The terrain here was incredible. While the big draw for most people is to see lava flowing, it wasn’t flowing while we were there but it was still an incredible experience.

Multiple volcanoes have blown here over the years and there’s almost always been some sort of activity. We did get to see a crater glowing at night which was incredible. We were about 500m away and the glow was really bright. Amazing how Mother Nature does such things. We spent a couple days driving around the park, up to 2,000m for a view down on the active crater, down to where lava meets the sea and did a couple short hikes on the hardened lava. Our stay was complimented with two nights at the very comfy and romantic Volcano Rainforest Retreat – a must for couples visiting.

Here are a few photos from our trip and you can view the full gallery on Facebook.

Aloha!

Along a road in the park

Driving along the Chain of Craters Road

On a recent flow near the sea

Hardened lava along the coast

At the edge of a still-steaming crater that blew in the 1970s

Erika & Scott at one of the park's many craters


Asia Pacific Leadership Program 2012-13

The 2011-12 APLP cohort

Aloha Friends – if you’re feeling in need of a life reassessment, expanding your horizons, and/or growing, consider applying for the 2012-13 intake of the Asia Pacific Leadership Program, at the East West Center which I’m currently enjoying here in Honolulu, HI. It’s been a very rewarding three-and-a-half months so far and I’m happy to have come and taken part. The deadline for application for the 2012-13 intake is December 1 so now’s the time to get filing documents and learning more if you’re potentially interested.

It’s very hard to believe it was one year ago now that I decided to apply, not really thinking I would be here now. Has it been a while since you enacted serious change in your life? Been out of your comfort zone for an extended period of time lately? Do you like getting up everyday?

Click the link and have a read.

Mahalo


In to the Field for a Study

An intriguing aspect of joining the Asia Pacific Leadership Program was the two-week NE Asia Field Study in October. After two months learning here at the East-West Center (EWC) in Honolulu, the time has come to head off and hit the road with some of my Generation 11 cohorts from about 10 countries.

The intent of the field study is to:

  • deepen G11 group relations off campus
  • expand the EWC’s international network
  • activate and deepen our learnings from campus and further develop competencies

This is the first time a cohort has gone to two countries during Field Study and I’m pumped for both locations. We depart Honolulu on

Most of the G11 cohort

October 13 and touch-down in Tokyo on the evening of October 14. We’re there for six full days during which time we’ll attend meetings with EWC alumni, meet government ministers, have a conference about the post 3/11 Triple Disaster and of course eat some sushi at Japan’s largest fresh fish market. One of our professors, Nick Barker spent six months last year living and working in the city so he’ll no doubt have a unique perspective to share with us.

Then it’s off to China on the afternoon of October 20th and straight to the Great Wall. Here we’ll enjoy sundown and stay at a farmhouse right next to the wall. The next morning we’ll take a three-hour hike atop the wall then we’re sent out in teams of three to spend three days in small, quiet, rural towns with virtually no tourists to investigate/observe some element of Chinese life and report on it. The teams and tasks will be revealed the night before. Our final four days are in Beijing proper meeting government officials, attending EWC Alumni dinners and taking in as much of the capital as possible.

My primary field study goals are to observe leadership styles and group dynamics within the G11 group and get a sense of the Chinese pulse of ordinary citizens.

My travel style due to my work with Smiling Albino is usually to be very prepared and highly knowledgeable about the plan, the areas I’m visiting and to be in control. This trip I am going to do some pre-reading but enjoy the experience from a slightly, but deliberately, semi-uninformed perspective, letting events and days unfold naturally and let others lead the way most of the time.

I’m particularly interested in seeing how our instructors lead the group, deal with people being late, plans not unfolding as expected and their response to these.

Very interested in seeing the group dynamics of the G11 cohort, who takes the lead, how decisions are made, when tempers flare, why and how they are resolved. There will certainly be multiple moments of adaptive leadership in action.

During my time in China and particularly during the three-day group village study I’m interested in speaking with ordinary Chinese and gaining an understanding for their lives and whether they feel they’re improving. Not just improving, but is their standard of living rising and their access to opportunities on-par with other ordinary Chinese? Finally, where do they see China in 10, 15 and 20 years?

Thoughts about the trip will follow in the coming weeks after I’m back in Honolulu on October 29th.


Live Again – from Honolulu

It’s been about two years since I last updated my blog and I’m not sure what happened and why I let it go? Better late than never as the saying goes and here I am again, hopefully with a better perspective, bit more writing style and a blog that will stay interesting and active. It took a many pokes from great friend Sue & Todd, keepers of Tallglass.com to get me going on this again – thanks!

There’s a lot of new things going on: I’ve taken a five-month sabbatical from my travel company Smiling Albino, to be a Fellow at the

Hiking in amazing Kauai

East-West Center in Honolulu, partaking in their Asia Pacific Leadership Program (APLP). After 12 years living and working in SE Asia it was time for a change of scenery and perspective. A longtime friend, Trevor Ranges, recommended the program, my business partner Daniel graciously let me go and I’ve been here since August 6. So far it’s been a great opportunity to develop leadership skills, learn about a broad range of subjects affecting the greater Asia Pacific region and mix with my 39 cohorts from 24 countries. Oh ya, and Hawaii’s amazing.

Another major change is that I’m living with an amazing woman, Erika. Originally from Singapore we met in Bangkok about seven years ago, dated a bit, she moved back to Singapore, we met up here and there, lost contact, met again and have been dating for two years. She moved to Bangkok in April 2010 to be together and was incredible to let me come to Hawaii to partake in APLP. I can’t imagine life without her and am anxiously awaiting her arrival here on November 19 for a visit.

So, thanks for checking-in, I’ll update weekly and look forward to sharing random ramblings with you. Here we go…


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